The cha-cha appears to be the most popular dance today, overtaking the
foxtrot. “A lot of pop music has that quickstep cha-cha rhythm and so you
can dance to something recognisable from various chart eras,” says Bullock.
“People still like the idea of learning the foxtrot, but are shocked by just
how hard it is to master.”

Bullock often joins his students on Blackpool weekends, where they spend
afternoons practising to the sounds of the Tower Ballroom’s Wurlitzer organ.

In Blackpool, of course, ballroom dancing has never needed a resurgence. Since
the Tower Ballroom opened in 1899, millions of people have trotted across
its beautiful sprung floor to a backdrop of Victorian splendour.

Blackpool is to ballroom what Wimbledon is to tennis. As well as the Tower,
the town also has the stunning Empress Ballroom at the Winter Gardens, which
opened in 1896. It was at the Empress that the Blackpool Dance Festival –
the world’s first and most famous series of ballroom dancing competitions –
began in 1920 and endures to this day. This year 60 countries were
represented, with almost 3,000 entries travelling from across the globe to
take part.

Earlier this year Blackpool Tower celebrated the 120th anniversary of its
opening to visitors. It was the brainchild of Blackpool mayor John
Bickerstaffe, who returned from the Great Paris Exhibition in 1889 so
impressed by the Eiffel Tower that he commissioned the design of a replica
as a new landmark for his town. Rising to 158m (518ft), it took three years,
2,500 tons of steel and five million Accrington bricks to build. By the time
it opened, the Tower had cost about £300,000. Today, it is a Grade I listed
building and draws more than 650,000 visitors each year.

The Tower Ballroom itself was built to the designs of Frank Matcham, a
renowned theatre architect of the time, and was commissioned to replace the
original and much smaller ballroom, in response to competition from the
newly opened Empress Ballroom.

^{Earlier this year Blackpool Tower celebrated the 120th anniversary of its
opening to visitors (Photo: AP)}

A discarded cigarette caused a fire that wreaked havoc in the ballroom in
December 1956; restoration took two years and cost more than £500,000, with
many of the former designers and builders coming out of retirement to
assist.

Pop along on any afternoon of the week and unless there is an organised event
taking place, you will be treated to sights and sounds that transport you to
another time. Outside, harsh winds might be blowing in from the Irish Sea,
holding up the stags and hens that traditionally make Blackpool the venue
for their pre-wedding shenanigans. However, inside the ballroom, flanked by
two tiers of Matcham’s lavishly decorated Victorian balconies and with
crystal chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, the atmosphere is sedate and
serene. Everywhere you look – from the exquisite murals featuring beautiful,
gowned women on the ceiling (painted by local scenery painters) to the
elaborate and richly detailed Victorian architrave – there is something to
admire. The dance floor itself is splendid: all 120 sq ft (11 sq m) of it
crafted 120 years ago out of 30,602 blocks of walnut, mahogany and oak.

On the floor, the waltz is king (although the tempo does change for the odd
foxtrot and cha-cha), and couples of all ages and abilities circle, one
behind the other, to the sound of piped organ music played live from a
raised stage.

Anyone can have a go – you don’t have to be any good, and beginners with just
a handful of lessons behind them certainly wouldn’t feel out of place.
During the week you’ll mainly find older couples on the floor, but at the
weekends there are some younger dancers. Whether you take part (bring your
own partner – they don’t provide escorts) or simply watch, a visit is a
glorious experience. After all, Blackpool has delivered the glamour and
glitz of the ballroom for more than a century – and if you need further
proof, just tune in tonight.

Strictly Come Dancing broadcasts live from Blackpool Tower Ballroom at
7pm this evening on BBC One

Blackpool ballroom essentials

Entry to the Tower Ballroom (0871 222 9929; theblackpooltower.com)
costs £9.95 per person (£7.95 online), or £19.95, including afternoon tea at
one of the tables set around the dance area. Admission to the balcony
viewing area costs £2.95 per person. Opening times vary and the ballroom is
occasionally closed for private events. See the website for details. On
November 17, 18 and 19, hour-long dance lessons are on offer for £19.95,
which includes entry to the ballroom and afternoon tea.

Zig Zag Dance (01902 897900; zigzagdance.co.uk)
offers dancing lessons in the Birmingham area from £5 per hour, and also
organises special dance-and-cruise holidays.

To find the nearest Council for Dance Education and Training accredited dance
class, visit cdet.org.uk